A tasty addition to Albany’s downtown revitalization sits at the corner of 1st Street and Broadalbin. Vault 244 Bistro and Lounge aims to offer affordable fine dining in an atmosphere that invites you to stay a while. Local blogger Marylin Smith nailed it when she said, "It's another of those not-Albany places, but may be the tipping point into what IS Albany."

The marital sidekick and I headed to Albany one Sunday on a tip. Following a September 15th opening, a buzz was spreading through foodies roaming the Willamette Valley. The delight begins upon approach. The eatery leases space in the Cusick building, a beautiful circa 1895 Queen Anne recently restored to its 1900’s visage. Through large wooden doors, rich warm tones temper the impact of the soaring ceiling, drawing the long but narrow space warmly around. Bold but sparse decorative elements complement the centerpiece of the space: a gorgeous twinkling back bar rising to the ceiling, capped by a section of original metal ceiling tiles.

Vault 244 strikes a perfect tone of style, class and welcoming comfort that is a hard juggling act to pull off.

The bistro is a true family affair. Lane Brown is co-owner with his father, Michael Brown. Construction of the space was their own doing, and mother Kathy contributed all the decorating decisions. Lane manages the day-to-day operations; Michael works there three days a week, and Kathy does the books. The detailed execution of custom made dark cabinetry speak to the family’s background as custom homebuilders in the Albany area. The fine touch is everywhere, most notably in the small wine cellar visible down the back stairs.

Lane had eight years of bartending and serving behind him, but no experience as a restaurateur.

“The bistro is our view of something Albany really needed,” he said. “In the months before embarking upon the project, we were going to surrounding cities and seeing all our friends in other places. Why not create a place like this in Albany?”

Word is the evenings can get busy; plan ahead as they don’t take reservations. Bryan, who was a perfect mix of warmth, humor and information, met us warmly when we entered, inviting us to sit as we pleased. The long bar looked inviting, but the hot spot was the comfy couch style four top beside a sleek and sexy gas fireplace. Yes, I said sexy. Take a date there and see what I mean.

The drink menu has variety. I considered the Far East Bloody Mary (tomato, ginger, sriracha, wasabi, honey, mustard, soy, vodka, with pickled ginger garnish) but tried a Pisco Sour (pisco brandy, lemon, simple syrup, egg whites, bitters). My dining partner’s Stella Artois was the picture of the perfect pour.

“The lavender lemon drop has been really popular,” Lane reported.

There is something for everyone, as illustrated by the couple that came to the bar and ordered two Budweiser aluminums.

The food options are varied, without being outlandish. Chef Cody Martin who hails from Café Soriah in Eugene and most recently Silver Grille in Silverton sets the menu. Fourteen tapas offerings are perfect to share with friends over a drink, or make a fun mix-and-match dinner. Our Four Cheese Fondue (with a selection of small amounts of broccoli, carrots, celery, two types of bread cubes and sausage, $9) and Wild Mushrooms (slivered garlic, fresh herbs and brandy, $6) were nicely presented and made with quality ingredients, seasoned with a gentle touch. Both were $1 off thanks to the Sunday special.

Eight entrees plus the weekly special are wide ranging: from Spanish Ragu (sweet pepper lamb ragu, $14) and Spanakopita (spinache, onions, garlic and herb in puff pastry, $14), to Copper River Salmon (served with dill hollandaise and a wild rice pilaf, $18) and Filet Mignon (finished with a pomegranate demi-glace and served with bleu cheese gratin, $20).

We dined on sesame crusted Seared Ahi and Country Meatloaf. Elegant but simple in presentation, the moderate serving sizes made both reasonable values. The meatloaf was out of this world. Meatloaf, you say? Yes, meatloaf … with bits of bacon and vegetables mixed through the flavorful, well textured meat, baked with a maple glaze and served with roasted garlic mashed potatoes.

We topped the dinner off by sharing a slice of cheesecake. At $7 it disappointed slightly upon arrival because it was on the small side, but it redeemed itself somewhat with a well-balanced dense creamy texture, a hint of orange zest in the crust and a yummy pomegranate drizzle to mop up.

“I knew this would be a lot of work,” Lane admitted. “But it’s been even more than I thought it would be. It’s also been more enjoyable to see what we are offering being checked out by Albany and to see excited people smiling and enjoying the atmosphere,” he admits it doesn’t really feel like working.

Downtown renovations will result in a new outdoor seating area coming in the spring, adding 35 outdoor seats and almost doubling their capacity when weather cooperates.

When asked if he’s considered Salem, Lane laughed a good natured laugh, admitting a chef from a new Salem eatery had come in speaking of the ripe potential in Salem.

“I’ve got my hands full here for a while,” he replied.