By Ed Malles
from Salem Monthly, Section Dining
Posted on Wed Apr 30, 2008 at 09:14:23 PM PDT
Mushrooms are very successful creatures; not quite plants (no chlorophyll) and not animals, they occupy their own kingdom, and rightly so. Found worldwide, diverse, delicious and sometimes deadly, they are revered by many and known by all. Some of their greatest fans, of course, are foodies.
Very few foodstuffs are as widely respected, and as widely used and experimented with. We're lucky enough in Oregon to live in mushroom central, with a bounty of delicious species available, and available fresh and homegrown, so to speak. Our cool, wet climate attracts mushrooms like an election attracts argument. At least eight separate mushrooms thrive and are available fresh (in season) or dried (out of season) in the Northwest. Any of them are worth looking for on local menus while fresh, but a few are coming up of special interest.
"One of the most popular in our area is the morel," says Christina Cossairt of Oregon Mushrooms. "We supply lots of morels, and they are about to come in."
Morels offer a distinctive meaty flavor and texture and elongated heads.
She also points out that something we consider a delicacy from overseas is available right here, regionally.
"Truffles from Oregon are vastly underappreciated. We had a killer crop this year, both the black and white varieties, and they were fantastic."
The season for fresh truffles is mostly past, but if you see Oregon truffle oil featured in an entrée, give it a shot. You don't have to wait for the French to send them overseas to you.
And just coming into season are Porcinis, which are one of the most easily enjoyed of local mushrooms. You can eat them like portobellos, with steaks, or even as a main dish. Just don't try to take them off of Christina's plate.
"I love them," she said. "I'm a major fan, and eat them almost every day when they're coming in fresh."
And don't forget the Salem Public Market. Usually at least a few mushroom gatherers are set up on the weekends at the 12th Street location, and you'll find not only fresh mushrooms but dried as well.
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